The original post is located at wwd.com
Chinese designer Calvin Luo built his spring 2024 collection around the idea of reinterpreting Italian sculptor Rafaelle Monti’s soft marble creations with structured, unexpected materials, such as wool, denim and tweed.
The result was an elegant, versatile wardrobe for day and night with structured wool round-collar blazers, one-shoulder vests, and asymmetric overlapping shirts, all with pleating details that pay homage to Monti’s ethereal creation “La Donna Velata,” the veiled woman.
Other standouts included draped trousers in theatrical silhouettes with metal belt loops, chunky braided sweaters, elevated cargos and ruched dresses with optical illusion sculptural prints.
“There is this soft and romantic quality in his [Monti’s] marble sculptures, and the pleating details are inspired by the shrouded face portrayed in the sculpture. I also employed draping techniques in the design process. For the past few seasons, I really enjoyed the juxtaposition of two clashing elements. So I played around with pleating and draping on not just soft material, but thicker, unexpected textiles as well,” said Luo.
The designer explained that he decided to skip showing in Paris this season because he is saving up for a big 10th-anniversary celebration next year in China, where he operates four stores in addition to more than 70 points of sale.
